
Last year in October of 2005, my husband Scott and I had just returned from an amazing Southern Spain adventure. We had to plan for the following October 2006 and chose Switzerland. The fall and spring are when Jackson Hole locals leave for their vacations; business slows and weather turns miserable.
Back in 2004, we had gone on our first Swiss adventure. My mom and I booked a self-guided bike tour in Switzerland along the Rhone River and wine country through EEI Travel (this was amazing; I highly recommend). Initially, Scott was not interested but after a quick read up about activities in Switzerland he became a last minute addition but would not be biking. He bought a Swiss Rail Pass and created his own adventure. His intentions were to check out paragliding and Sky diving activities in the Lauderbrunnen valley area where the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau preside. So, while my mom and I grounded ourselves on two wheels, Scott did all the recon work for what was to be our 2006 trip.
Accommodations for October 2006 had to be booked early since we were using (2) time share weeks in Switzerland, so we booked our accommodations and flights as early as possible. Through RCI , a time-share company, we were able to find 2 weeks up in Murren at the Anfi Palace. This was to be a perfect location for all mountain activities: flying, sky-diving, trail running, biking, kiting, and enjoying fresh local foods and wines. Our Air tickets were $650.00 bought in March of 2006 through www.cheaptickets.com on American Airlines, Boston to Zurich.
MURREN, Switzerland: Inhabited for over 700 years, car-free and boasting a population of 350, Murren is the highest year-round inhabited village in the Berner Oberland. Filled with bakeries, cafes and folks with walking sticks, Murren offers alpine charm, pure mountain air, clearly marked walking paths through wildflower-laden meadows and Swiss cow pastures, past plunging waterfalls and breathtaking views!! (Fodors)
OCTOBER 2006: Upon arrival in Zurich at 7am, Scott and I exchanged money, validated our train passes (Swiss Pass is $480 USD and should be bought before traveling), and caught the next train heading towards our hotel. Our jet lag would be 8 hours ahead from MST.
After planes, trains, bus, cable car, and a mile walk, we arrived at our destination in Murren, the Anfi Palace. This hotel is in the picturesque alpine village described above. It is perched on a south-facing ledge over the Lauterbrunnen Valley offering the finest views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau peaks that dominate the Berner Oberland. Huge alpine glaciers were close enough to see the massive cornices and crevasses.
Around 3:00 pm we were tired but happy to have arrived, so settled down for a quick 45minute snooze fending off jet-lag. I was able to snuggle down in my travel clothes, my soft long sleeve Royal Robbins (RR) Coolmax stretchy longsleeve top, and RR Stretch Nox jeans. Even after 14 hours of travel, my soft and giving travel wear felt like pajamas. The Nox jean is stylish with 4 pockets, made of a thick, stretch, lightweight 60% cotton denim with UPF 40+ Coolmax®. A slight flare at the feet, low rise waist, and novelty topstitch on the back pockets all contributed to its style. Best of all, they kept their shape and were not hanging off me after 2.5 days of travel, still soft and appearing clean. The jeans seem to repel potential spill disasters. The Coolmax long sleeve top endured a couple spills (peanut butter and grape juice) of which I easily cleaned up in nearest bathrooms. Its soft jersey knit is the combination of Coolmax® polyester fibers that wick, keeping you dry and warm and cool and the 40% cotton gives it a street wear look. It stayed soft and kept its shape as well. Both items fit comfortably with plenty of give if you want to try to sleep on the train or plane.
Our basic accommodations were a hotel room with a balcony view of the Berner Oberland Alps. The hotel offered breakfast buffet and dinner (“half-board”) for $45 per day and the food was fabulous. Breakfast comprised of eggs, sausage, pancakes, cereals, dried fruits, nuts, cheeses, meats, juices, coffee, and assorted fresh baked bread. At breakfast is when you order dinner, fish, meat, or vegetarian entrees. The dinner meals always had a winter vegetable, healthy starch, main course or Rosti (root vegetable mixture “roasted” with melted cheese). They always gave a vegetarian option. Desserts were beautiful cheese trays, carrot cakes, ice cream, coffee, wine, etc.
After the nap we set out for a walk ending at a small pub for pumpkin soup, leek soup, and a couple fresh salads…YUM! The evening temperature was mild at about 50 F. I wore my Royal Robbins Megan hooded jacket that has a 100% polyester suede face and 100% polyester faux fur lining, fur pipe trim, and the inside has sheared fleece. The front of the jacket sports on-seam front pockets and three easy toggle closures with leather trim. The hood is a deep cozy hood where I could hide my cheeks and nose. It actually has a Swiss flair to it. This was my favorite warm travel piece. It is dressy, lightweight, warm, hooded, packable, and does not wrinkle. Ready for any adventure.
As the days went on, we were humbled by the multitude of activities coupled with GORGEOUS weather! The relaxing vacation became fast paced in a good way. During the days, we would leisurely awaken, have breakfast, make a plan, and head out until dark. Most days I would go for long hikes in the mountains with my Montrail Leona Divide sneakers, my RR Ashland Fleece hoody, RR Coolmax L/S top, Nuun electrolyte water tablets, Swiss trail mix (see recipe below), bottle of water, and RR Avani pants. I would also carry along Power Bar Harvest Bars and a Power Gel. The trails went on forever from valley to valley, mountain to mountain, glacier to glacier. I hiked numerous unnamed peaks and traveled through many small villages. The trail system was technical and sometimes far too slippery or snowy for crossing. The Swiss take pride in their trails and have good signage but do not rate trails or express caution. They do make estimates on how long time wise it will take you to reach a destination. One particular trail brought me to the Schiltornbahn Peak at 2930meters with a revolving restaurant The Piz Gloria (a 007 movie was filmed up here). The view extends from the Titlis, along Eiger, Mšnch and Jungfrau to Mont Blanc and far across the Mittelland to the Black Forest. You can see more than 200 mountain peaks, innumerable glaciers and lakes. Part of the trail takes you up a suspended metal staircase that overhangs a 1000 meter drop off. In some areas you walk along narrow VERY steep cliffs, with a cable wire for security. I was thrilled to be on these trails and peaks returning everyday with amazing mountaineering stories. On days that Scott was paragliding (right down the street from our hotel) or checking out BASE jumping walls (the famous “Yellow Ocean”), or sky diving from helicopters in Interlaken, we would meet up in the evenings with many adventures to compare.
On nights we did not eat at the Anfi Palace we would venture down in to the valley and eat in another village or town. Late October is the low season so many establishments close for a month or two. This area is packed with ski resorts; lifts go in all different directions offering reasonable lift ticket prices.
Sightseeing happened every day with the views surrounding us. During warm sightseeing days, I would bring along the packable Royal Robbins ‘Peralta vest’;http://www.royalrobbins.com/product_details.aspx?ItemCode=30026&Sub_Cat_ID=23&sp=N. The Peralta is lightweight and durable, it packs into its own pocket and would easily slip into my Lowe Alpine Bum Bag. Train rides would take us up vertical cliffs and through tunnels that were cut out of the mountainside. All it took was a good brat, kraut, and beer.
Switzerland is many steps ahead of the world in sustainability, never straying from its family gardening, owning its own milk cow, and storing foods in bulk in their cellars during the winters. A good steer costs 50-60K USD! A good Cow is about 25K. They make use of all land and take care of buildings that are hundreds of years old. Many villages are no car zone walking areas. Many lakes and bodies of water do not allow ANY motor travel. Snowmobiles, Para-Motors, and dirt bikes are not allowed. Gas is expensive and cars are mini. The train system is incredible and the standard means of transportation. They are not on the Euro but the Swiss Franc. While we were there, it was 1.2 CHF to the USD (late October).
If you are looking for a good place to start by visiting Switzerland, start in Interlaken and then venture out. Mostly everybody speaks English and they are friendly. Service is top notch and all transportation means are ON TIME. If there is not a train, a bus or cable car will take you there. There is no need to rent a car.
Royal Robbins for travel wear. A good pair of hiking/ running shoes I prefer Montrail Leona Divide.
Nuun water tablets.
Patagonia Freightliner Luggage. Protech Sunblock.
Smartwool socks and underwear.
Ryders sunglasses
Dansko MaryJane Clogs
PowerBar Harvest and Fruit and Nut Bars, PowerBar PowerGel Chocolate.
Aveeno face wipes.
Coal ear flap hat
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